things start to pile up and get on top of you, it's time to take some time off
and go to Cornwall.
But Devon first . . .
may not find this terribly rewarding unless you're included here, so this is a
good time for casual and random browsers to turn back before they get too caught
up in the sweep and majesty of the proceedings and can't let go.
Path -- Ilfracombe and Berrynarbor (18 April 2006)
been up over the Thayne path from the Sterridge Valley to the next one westward,
had a leisurely lunch in Hele Bay near Ilfracombe, and now we're trotting contentedly
along the Southwest Coast Path eastward towards Berrynarbor again.
a fond glance back towards Hele Bay and Lunches Past
where the path has to take a big dip and detour around the fence-addicts of the
Widmouth cottages management. But the views in every direction are so spectacular
that the mu-opioid receptors in the ventral occipitotemporal cortexes, or cortexi,
are gushing with natural endomorphins, thus saving on expenses.
Kristin with unsubtle fencing
Merlin's Cave, probably
at low tide on a squally day, the haven of Berrynarbor -- this may have been what
first put Berrynarbor on the map, in the old days.
boats at Watermouth at low tide, some temporarily, some for good and all
sailboat waddling race across the intertidal mudflats
ex-trawler. Looks like somebody looted the engine out of it and left it there
to flop about on the sand gasping for gas.
in Watermouth -- should have asked for directions
downtown Berrynarbor (brilliant Web
site). The Norman manorial families Berry and De Nerbert got together just
about a thousand years ago and saw the place off to a good start, and it's been
all improvements since . . .
for the ubiquitous Flower Pot Men, which caught on
bigtime and evidently all houses (but one) in the district have got bunches of
them out front, cleverly posed (watering the garden, serving tea, mucking out
stables, etc.). According to signs at the entrance to the town, Berrynarbor was
voted first or second Best Managed Village in Britain every year until 1996 and
not after that, and we were wondering if the craze for Flower Pot Men took hold
of the citizens at about that time. (More likely the plaque
at the roadside just hasn't been updated.)
the back door of Ye Olde Globe Inn (by which must be meant The
Olde Globe Inn, if the medieval thorn character þ for (th) has been misread
as a Y). Many are the nights (2) that we've assisted our favorite local team in
the Berrynarbor Sunday Night Pub Quiz, sometimes to victory, but alas not this
church in Berrynarbor, with lots of Norman stuff and a 17th century gate, and
lots of very dignified-looking dead folks brightening up the precincts, or dignifying
them anyway. (Not the one in orange, that's Kristin.)
leaving Berrynarbor now and proceeding at a full gallop up the Sterridge Valley
for lamb chops and other things to go with them. All made in a Swiss fondue pot.