Peck's personal Web site
Peck goes to Turkey, 1987
June 1987, Marlowe Tyson Peck decided to broaden her horizons and went off to
Turkey for a while.
You may not find this tangibly rewarding unless you're included here, so this is a good time for casual and random browsers to turn back before they get too caught up in the sweep and majesty of the proceedings and can't let go.
first she stopped over for a few days in Venice, whilst
awaiting the arrival of the car ferry, chased pigeons all about St. Mark's for
a good part of that time, and got tossed overhead whilst sucking on her thumb.
a few days on the high Adriatic and Aegean Seas, Marlowe kept in shape by running
laps around the car ferry's swimming pool.
docked at Izmir, Marlowe permitted herself to be driven southward towards ancient
Ephesus near Selçuk, where her mother draws her attention to the
Peck went for an afternoon run over that hill in the background and, descending
through cliffs on the far side, found himself amid the 4th century Caves
of the Seven Sleepers. As he trotted out through the tourist gate at the
bottom, the ticket-taker had the effrontery to try to charge him the admission
fee retroactively. (Mr Peck ran away instead.))
out from her first day of archaeological sightseeing, Marlowe waits for a bus.
in Ephesus, Marlowe affects insouciance before a horrible headless statue.
library at Ephesus.
and her carrier are peeking out from between the 3rd and 4th columns.
relaxes at the motel near Ephesus. Her parents brought their Subaru van along
to save money by camping in it, but as it turned out the hotels in western Turkey,
at that time, cost only marginally more than nothing, and the van was never used
for that purpose.
half-day at the beach.
checking to make sure that the fishing fleet is ready to go out at dawn near Ephesus.
having exhausted Ephesus (and everyone there at the time), prepares to hit the
road for more adventures.
cruised the wine-dark seas from Venice to Izmir and passed a pleasant few days
at Ephesus, Marlowe headed south to see Bodrum, ancient Halikarnassus, once a
mighty outpost of Hellenic, Byzantine, and Ottoman civilizations and now a yachting
medieval fort at Bodrum, built by the monastic military order of the Knights
of Rhodes. Another fine example of pre-ashcroftian homeland security, remarkably
resistant to terrorist and other forms of attack even in the absence of metal
detectors, sniffer dogs, and "wands".
was back in the days when people who solemnly declared wars went off to fight
them, not off to the golf course.
corner tower of the fort at Bodrum, with the flag of Turkey snapping bravely in
patiently awaits her turn to crawl into the corner tower . . .
. . and wave.
(ancient Hierapolis), where "thermal spring waters laden with calcareous
salts running off the plateau's edge have created a fantastic formation of stalactites,
cataracts and basins".
Peck negotiating a fantastic formation of stalactites, cataracts and basins despite
her diminutive size.
mandatory quick journey to a beach, the Çesme peninsula near Izmir.
cruised the mighty seas from Venice to Izmir and checked out the Southwest, Marlowe
flew from Izmir to Istanbul for a few days . . .
Palace, Istanbul. Marlowe
views the wonders of the 15th century Ottoman palace, one of the first built after
the end of the Byzantine Empire, and speculates about lunch.
in Topkapi Palace, Istanbul, 1987 (and 2010).
in front of the Blue Mosque, Istanbul.
Istanbul!" Marlowe embarks on a cruise north of the city . . .
. . and passes by the Achille Lauro cruise ship, scene of an awful pre-ashcroftian
terrorist attack in October 1985. The Abu-Nidal Palestinian hijacking ended with
only one senseless murder after US negotiators guaranteed safe passage for the
hijackers to Egypt, then sort of changed their minds, and scrambled F-14 fighter
planes to force the Egyptian plane down in Sicily. A sad monument to bad faith
all the way round.
first photograph on her own.
north of Istanbul, sleeps through Rumelihisari (Rumeli
Fortress), built in the 15th century as part of the Ottomans' final assault on
by airplane to Izmir and motoring off to Bergama next, ancient
Pergamum, where her dad pretends to explain some of the ancient steles.
photograph is looking northward from ancient Pergamum in western Turkey.
Marlowe is looking southward.
and the old dad charging up in an assault on the main gate of Pergamum (much as
the Persian troopers under Darius and Cyrus must have done long ago), . . .
. . under the tolerant gaze of Marlowe's mum.
Trojan Horse. Or a reconstruction. Homerus tells how, during the Trojan
War (a long time ago), cunning Odysseus of the post-Achilles
Greek army stuck a lot of heavily armored guys into a horsey offering to the gods
such as this and sent the rest of his besieging army off to the pub, as if giving
up the 10-year siege at last. When the dumb defenders of Troy had dragged the
horse into the city as a present for their protector gods and got down to serious
victory partying, crafty old Odysseus and his boys snuck out and opened the city
gates, just as the Greek army was wandering by on its way home from the pub. Fini
cunning Odysseus, Marlowe
Peck prepares to climb into the Trojan horse, without
her armor and big sword thing.
away from the siege of Troy, Marlowe walks off towards Syria.
sets up a howling at the sight of an archaeological map of some of the levels
of Troy excavation and a bee sting on her elbow.
several weeks of touring ruined cities in Asia Minor, Marlowe gratefully relaxes
aboard the car ferry back to Venice.
does her old dad.
back in Switzerland, Marlowe suits up in pajamas, backpack, and goggles and gets
ready for the coming winter.
and suggestions are welcome if positive, resented if negative, .
All rights reserved, all wrongs avenged. Posted 10 July 2002, rescanned 7 February