Peck's personal Web site
2007 -- Late
September in the USA
National Park, Maine, USA: Isle au Haut
ride, forest trail, and the New York Times
may not find this tangibly rewarding unless you're included here, so this is a
good time for casual and random browsers to turn back before they get too caught
up in the sweep and majesty of the proceedings and can't let go.
is Stonington, Maine, at the southern end of Deer Isle. We're on our way out to
Isle au Haut ("Eel-Oh-Oh") for a walk in the forest there. First --
Maine, on a sunny, cool 29 September 2007. Still waiting for the ferry.
docks at Stonington. The Isle au Haut (evolved French for 'High Island') is on
the horizon, about 45 minutes away by speedy ferryboat.
from the ferry boat. We're off.
small cormorant scouting party
into the pier at Isle au Haut. Much of the island is part of Acadia National Park, though considerably separated
from the rest of it on Mount Desert Island to the northeast. From the pier here,
we'll scoot up through the tangly forest along a kilometre of five-metre wide
National Park right of way through private land into the interior of the island,
where we can burst out onto the trail system throughout the rest of the park.
a couple of lunch breaks with excellent sandwiches from Stonington, Kristin leads
the way southward along the Duck Harbor Trail. The park properties have been made
available by some of the old robber baron families that owned the place and summered
here in the 19th century, and some of them are still here evidently.
few kilometres on, the Duck Harbor trail drops down out of the forest to the shore
along Moores Harbor. The Isle au Haut offers a limited number of established camping
grounds, chiefly at Duck Harbor, which need to be reserved in advance -- from
these it must be possible to spend as many days as you like exploring the hiking
trails all over the island, but for a one-day outing on the ferry the destination
options are pretty limited.
course, there's a very early ferry -- that's not worth discussing. The next one
leaves Stonington at 11 and returns at 5 p.m., so for a one day's casual hike,
sure to be back before the last boat leaves, well, that pretty much means just
as far as Deep Cove.
few people can get lost on a seashore, but Deep Cove must be near here somewhere.
Deep Cove trail misses some of the probably wonderful sites of the island, but
it's a short enough hike to be sure of making the last ferry. It's also a short
enough hike not to fill the time we do have, so . . .
. . we'll grasp the opportunity to get through a few of the best pages of The
New York Times.
shoreline of Moores Harbor
back to the ferry dock in good time. That's Kimball Island across the strait,
named after one of the original families.
the ferry will arrive again, and we'll have to leave Eel-Oh-Oh largely unexplored.
we're ready. Tomorrow, Mount Desert Island.
Feedback and suggestions are welcome if positive, resented if negative, .
All rights reserved, all wrongs avenged. Posted 15 October 2007, revised 16 October 2012.